First Week of March, 2013

Well, it had to happen....we've had some rainy, cool weather in paradise this last week. (I can hear the groans from winter weary St. Louisans all the way down here:) While hanging out in Staniel Cay, home of the airport thru which Dale and Deni were departing on Monday, we were hit with significant winds (up to 30 knots) and heavy rain for the entire weekend. So what else can you do? We played poker (betting with the laundry quarters) and ate lots of Deni's fabulous veggie jambalaya. 

Dale and Deni at Exhuma Land and Sea Park

 

After seeing Deni and Dale off, we were desperate to do LAUNDRY. This is not a simple operation...first we threw the 2 black plastic trash bags filled with bedding, towels, etc into the dinghy. Don't forget the detergent and fabric softener! Don't forget a book to read! Don't forget money ($3.50 per load--which is cheap by Bahama standards) Then we head to the marina....home of a new laundromat. WRONG. Go back to the dinghy, reload everything. Ride to Isles General Store...promised to house a laundromat. WRONG. Go back to the dinghy, reload everything. Listen to Linda say emphatically "I am ready to go home." (home as in Missouri, not the sailboat)

Regroup. Head to Black Point Settlement...a sailboat ride taking 3 hours. Find a lovely LAUNDERMAT (owner Ida's spelling). Do 4 loads of laundry, meet some other cruisers, decide to eat dinner at Lorraine's Cafe, and head back to the sailboat with fresh, clean laundry. It's the simple things! 

Prior to our meal at Lorraine's Cafe, we visit her mother's home behind the restaurant and order some of her famous coconut bread. I simply knocked, was invited inside her lovely home, and ordered fresh bread that would be ready following our meal. The smell inside her house should be bottled and sold in the states... a mixture of cinnamon, yeast, brown sugar, coconut and Bahama magic. We were lucky enough to share our meal with a couple, Mag and Wendy, from Newport News, originally from Norway. They've crossed the Atlantic numerous times and sailed the Mediterranean (we're envious). After dinner, we joined them for a nightcap on their 50 foot sailboat that resembles an upscale apartment (we're envious). Lovely people who shared their amazing stories with us (we're still envious:)

Barry the Bartender at Lorraine's, where customers fix their own drinks!

Looking at the calendar, and listening to Linda's need to leave the camping lifestyle behind, we know it's time to start heading back north. So we stop at a place that was highly recommended by Wendy--Compass Cay. This is what I've imagined the Bahamas would look like....lush green foliage, crystal clear water in various shades of turquoise, white sand that is almost blinding. We anchor, and decide to check out the lone, small marina that caters to yachts. Someone has taken a lot of time putting up funky artwork and building a set of trails that head to a gorgeous beach. And of course, there is the requisite shark feeding in the afternoon.

Since we know a good thing when we see it, the next morning we are up and at it by 8 a.m. We head to a  pair of coral heads called Rocky Dundas and enter a small cave, complete with stalagmites and stalactites. (I was reminded a bit of the caves in Missouri) We actually took the dinghy right into the mouth of the cave! Beautiful and mysterious!



Our dinghy inside the mouth of the cave in Rocky Dundas





The mouth of the cave at Rocky Dundas

Inside the cave....wow!

Next, we headed to the 'Sea Aquarium'...a part of the unbelievable Exhuma Land and Sea Park....recommended for snorkeling. Barry jumped in first and comes up exclaiming "It IS like snorkeling in an aquarium!!" When I jump in, I quickly realize this is the most amazing snorkeling I have EVER experienced. Orange, magenta, and aqua coral in the shapes of tubes and cylinders are surrounded by fish painted brilliant shades of yellow, purple, turquoise, and orange. Rainbow parrot fish, butterfly fish, rock beauties....their names can't do justice to their beauty! Some of the fish come right up to our masks. When we are worn out and cold and have to quit, I tell Barry that this is one of the best days of my LIFE!! 

(Just an aside....Johnny Depp owns an island near here. Unfortunately, he didn't show up while we were in the area. Oh, well...)

We are currently back in Warderick Wells, the headquarters for the Land and Sea Park. This morning, we took a long hike up to the top of the hill overlooking the ocean. Then, despite the temps in the 60s, we practically went snorkeling right off the sail boat. For the first time, we saw a Bahamian lobster scurry across the ocean floor, as well as several new species of fish. Snorkeling makes me feel so happy....as if everything is alright with the natural world. At least here....it is!!