Final Thoughts

We're back in the U. S. of A!!
After a rolling, 10-hour crossing from Nassau to Great Harbor Cay in the Berry Islands, and then a smooth  25-hour crossing to the Florida coast, we're back in the States. Currently, we're in a marina in Stuart, Florida on the St. Lucie River, an inlet between the Atlantic and the Okechobee Waterway of central FL.

Today we plan to do LAUNDRY :) and decide if we want to rent a slip here for the next year. We've already met some friendly people at the marina's St. Pat's Day party and have checked out the pool and other facilities (lovely).

In the meantime, I want to share some random, final thoughts about our adventure in the Bahamas.

• Did I mention that Barry had his evil spirits exorcised in Nassau? Really. A little, wrinkled old woman dressed in old clothes approached him in a marine hardware store and said "I'm hongry. I need $2.00 for a loaf of bread."  Barry gave her the money, and then she said "Let me take away your bad spirits." She placed her hands on his back and his chest, closed her eyes as if in prayer, and mumbled some words. When she finished, she said "You be better now." Barry thanked her and went his merry way.  Hmmmm....Bahamian panhandling? But since his head doesn't spin around 360 anymore, I guess it worked :)
• Island time: This is an adjustment, even for retired people! We learned we could not be in a rush to get fuel pumped, to be served in a restaurant, or certainly to use the internet! A sign in a bar in Staniel Cay summed it up: "The internet may be slower than you are used to. Just relax and look at the beautiful water surrounding you. Eventually you will get a connection--in the meantime, enjoy the view."
• Weather predictions aren't always correct--too bad you discover this when you're miles offshore in 6 foot waves.
• People are amazing! The man who saved our dinghy; the guys who set an extra anchor on our sailboat as it was being dragged to the rocky shore; the couple who are traveling with their disabled son and showed us the true meaning of patience and love; the waitress in a local Nassau food 'shack' who remembered us and the food we had ordered several weeks previous; and adventurous people who just follow the wind!

IT'S THE LITTLE THINGS:

• Fast, free wifi
• Cell phone towers
• Laundry facilities
• Paper towels
• Fresh veggies
• Ice cubes
• Charged batteries
• Trash disposal

      and it's the BIG THINGS:

• A night sky splashed with thousands of pinpoints of light, a sliver of moon, and phosphorescent sparkles in the wake of the boat   
• The breath-taking experience of entering an opening at the waterline of a non-descript rocky island--to find an opening to the sky 

  

• Placing your face mask under the blanketed surface of water and watching an invisible universe of fish and coral unfold before your eyes
• Coming over the crest of a hill, where you are met with the sight of waves crashing onto a rocky shore below you

• Deciding to go a few steps further along a narrow strip of beach....to discover a small enclosure of turquoise water, surrounded by sugar-loaf boulders of limestone upon which the Atlantic crashes from behind. One of the most beautiful places I've ever seen...and I didn't have my camera! (But here's a picture of a similar boulder)

• The way the sun melts in an orange puddle, leaving behind clouds that are the color of conch shells

• Climbing down a rough embankment composed of sharp coral and limestone rocks lined with scrubby brush....to emerge onto the ledge of a blue hole

• Traveling for the past 3 months with a man who throws his head back when he laughs; who greets me like a puppy dog every morning (you're awake! give me a kiss! do you want some coffee?); who looks at the ever-present mechanical break-downs as a challenge, not a problem; who revels in the beauty and wonder of the natural world almost as much as I do.

First Week of March, 2013

Well, it had to happen....we've had some rainy, cool weather in paradise this last week. (I can hear the groans from winter weary St. Louisans all the way down here:) While hanging out in Staniel Cay, home of the airport thru which Dale and Deni were departing on Monday, we were hit with significant winds (up to 30 knots) and heavy rain for the entire weekend. So what else can you do? We played poker (betting with the laundry quarters) and ate lots of Deni's fabulous veggie jambalaya. 

Dale and Deni at Exhuma Land and Sea Park

 

After seeing Deni and Dale off, we were desperate to do LAUNDRY. This is not a simple operation...first we threw the 2 black plastic trash bags filled with bedding, towels, etc into the dinghy. Don't forget the detergent and fabric softener! Don't forget a book to read! Don't forget money ($3.50 per load--which is cheap by Bahama standards) Then we head to the marina....home of a new laundromat. WRONG. Go back to the dinghy, reload everything. Ride to Isles General Store...promised to house a laundromat. WRONG. Go back to the dinghy, reload everything. Listen to Linda say emphatically "I am ready to go home." (home as in Missouri, not the sailboat)

Regroup. Head to Black Point Settlement...a sailboat ride taking 3 hours. Find a lovely LAUNDERMAT (owner Ida's spelling). Do 4 loads of laundry, meet some other cruisers, decide to eat dinner at Lorraine's Cafe, and head back to the sailboat with fresh, clean laundry. It's the simple things! 

Prior to our meal at Lorraine's Cafe, we visit her mother's home behind the restaurant and order some of her famous coconut bread. I simply knocked, was invited inside her lovely home, and ordered fresh bread that would be ready following our meal. The smell inside her house should be bottled and sold in the states... a mixture of cinnamon, yeast, brown sugar, coconut and Bahama magic. We were lucky enough to share our meal with a couple, Mag and Wendy, from Newport News, originally from Norway. They've crossed the Atlantic numerous times and sailed the Mediterranean (we're envious). After dinner, we joined them for a nightcap on their 50 foot sailboat that resembles an upscale apartment (we're envious). Lovely people who shared their amazing stories with us (we're still envious:)

Barry the Bartender at Lorraine's, where customers fix their own drinks!

Looking at the calendar, and listening to Linda's need to leave the camping lifestyle behind, we know it's time to start heading back north. So we stop at a place that was highly recommended by Wendy--Compass Cay. This is what I've imagined the Bahamas would look like....lush green foliage, crystal clear water in various shades of turquoise, white sand that is almost blinding. We anchor, and decide to check out the lone, small marina that caters to yachts. Someone has taken a lot of time putting up funky artwork and building a set of trails that head to a gorgeous beach. And of course, there is the requisite shark feeding in the afternoon.

Since we know a good thing when we see it, the next morning we are up and at it by 8 a.m. We head to a  pair of coral heads called Rocky Dundas and enter a small cave, complete with stalagmites and stalactites. (I was reminded a bit of the caves in Missouri) We actually took the dinghy right into the mouth of the cave! Beautiful and mysterious!



Our dinghy inside the mouth of the cave in Rocky Dundas





The mouth of the cave at Rocky Dundas

Inside the cave....wow!

Next, we headed to the 'Sea Aquarium'...a part of the unbelievable Exhuma Land and Sea Park....recommended for snorkeling. Barry jumped in first and comes up exclaiming "It IS like snorkeling in an aquarium!!" When I jump in, I quickly realize this is the most amazing snorkeling I have EVER experienced. Orange, magenta, and aqua coral in the shapes of tubes and cylinders are surrounded by fish painted brilliant shades of yellow, purple, turquoise, and orange. Rainbow parrot fish, butterfly fish, rock beauties....their names can't do justice to their beauty! Some of the fish come right up to our masks. When we are worn out and cold and have to quit, I tell Barry that this is one of the best days of my LIFE!! 

(Just an aside....Johnny Depp owns an island near here. Unfortunately, he didn't show up while we were in the area. Oh, well...)

We are currently back in Warderick Wells, the headquarters for the Land and Sea Park. This morning, we took a long hike up to the top of the hill overlooking the ocean. Then, despite the temps in the 60s, we practically went snorkeling right off the sail boat. For the first time, we saw a Bahamian lobster scurry across the ocean floor, as well as several new species of fish. Snorkeling makes me feel so happy....as if everything is alright with the natural world. At least here....it is!!

 

Heading South!

The last time we 'talked', our sailboat was aground. Have no worries, we managed to float off and limp into a marina in Nassau for some rather rough weather the weekend of Feb. 16th.

Potter's Cay, Nassau

While in Nassau, waiting for Deni and Dale to fly in, we visited Potter's Cay for a breakfast of grits and fried eggs and then  later for an afternoon snack of fresh conch salad, prepared right in front of us. Potter's Cay consists of many small shacks operated by local Bahamians at which you can purchase food, drinks, dried fish, crabs,and produce. Men sit here and play dominoes all day. In between meals, we visited Atlantis--a huge resort across the bridge with casinoes, aquariums, restaurants, shops, hotels, and yachts. We got to see how the 'other half' lives (a suite at the hotel costs $1700)!
 

Rose Island
We were all excited to leave Nassau behind as we headed back to Rose Island, where Barry and I had spent Valentine's Day. We found a beach, complete with a hammock! As Deni, Dale, and I relaxed in beach chairs--Barry decided to try the hammock. The rest of us took bets on how long he would stay in the hammock--I was the closest with 2 minutes. *He actually lasted 2 min, 26 seconds. I won a case of beer--which I still haven't collected:)  I'll give Dale and Deni a break, since currently (in the central Exhumas) a case of beer costs $65. You read that right.

Bahama waters!

After a long day's sail, we anchored in Allen's Cay--home of the world-famous and endangered Exhuma Iguanas.


What you lookin' at?

These reptiles rush out to greet boaters....we had a welcoming committee of at least 25!!
For several days, we sailed and had days on the beach as we headed further south towards the Land and Sea Park of the Exhumas. The weather has been consistent--highs in the upper 70s, windy, no humidity. As we entered the waters of the Park, I was reminded of the blue waters of Disneyland's submarine ride--a clear, brilliant turquoise in several shades. At the park office, a nurse shark lingered under the docks, along with lots of sting rays.

Exhuma Land and Sea Park--Warderick Wells

At Warderick Wells, we took a walk up a trail called Boo-Boo Hill. Looking at the sharp edges of the coral and limestone path, we could see how it would be easy to get a 'boo-boo'. At the top of the hill is a place called 'Camp Driftwood, at which you can place a piece of driftwood with your boat's name carved into it. The view is spectacular!

We are currently in Staniel Cay--home of the Thunderball Grotto, in which scenes from the James Bond movie was filmed, as well as the movie Splash. The past couple of days have been filled with adventure! While we were trying to attach to a mooring ball in a fast current, our dinghy decided to come unhitched and head out to sea!! Luckily, it was quickly lassoed by a fellow boater and returned to us. Afterwards, Barry and I plopped down on the deck of our boat and realized our trip would have been over without the dinghy (aka our water taxi).  Another learning opportunity for us! (We've had enough of those)

On the bright side, we snorkeled yesterday in the grotto--which just happened to be about 100 yards from where we anchored our boat. (Sometimes we are so LUCKY) On the outside, it looks like any other of the hundreds of ancient coral islands down here. But at low tide, several small boats started to arrive with people ready to snorkel. Barry took Deni and I over--life vests and snorkeling equipment ready to go. We slid over the side of the dinghy and swam about 30 feet to the entrance of the grotto--ducking our heads under the edge of the island. Inside it was magical--resembling a coral cathedral 40 feet high and 30 feet wide. Light fell in from the holes above us, while tropical fish swam beneath us. Unbelievable! The coral and fish on the outer edge of the grotto were the most beautiful I've ever seen. Deep, clear water was surrounded by coral of purple, neon orange, teal. Every fish seemed to be of a different design.

To top off the day, we dinghied over to a beach known for their special inhabitants--wild pigs! These are not your normal pigs....they swim to your boat and beg for food! As we neared the island, two of them approached us. Deni threw lettuce and old vegetables to them to entice them closer. I had read about pigs, weighing 500 pounds, trying to climb in boats, so I was a bit nervous about all of this. We realized they don't like to swim too far--so we stayed just out of reach. Weird!

I'll huff and I'll puff and I'll blow your boat over

MORE PICTURES AT A LATER DATE....I have some terrific photos to share, but the wifi connection here reminds me of dial up service a dozen years ago. (and that's with paying $25 for three days service at the marina). I can't take it any more....time to relax and watch the sunset.

Berry Islands and Nassau

Greetings from Nassau! We took cover in a small marina in order to avoid the high winds that came in on Saturday, Feb. 16 and we finally have some wifi, so I want to share the highlights of the last week.

One of our favorite places in the Bahamas!

Great Harbor Cay beach

We spent a weekend at Great Harbor Cay in the Berry Islands and absolutely fell in love with the place. Lots of friendly cruisers, great staff, and beaches beyond compare! We spent a Sunday afternoon with several other couples exploring a tidal pool at low tide--finding starfish, sea biscuits, and shells.

 Continuing Barry's new exercise regime:) we walked the 2+ miles back to the boat with Jim and Nancy--cruisers from Colorado. In the evening, we went to John and Arlene's boat for a potluck dinner--enjoying lobster tails for dinner and LOTS of laughs! Arlene is a storehouse of cruising knowledge and she has a tremendous asset on her boat-- a SEWING MACHINE. This came in handy, as our headsail suffered a rip during our crossing from Bimini. No problem.... she just put the machine on the dock and sewed her up! I wish I had a picture of what happened when Barry and I reinstalled the headsail on the boat--let's just say the wind came up and so did I (almost). As always, a fellow boater lent a hand and we finished the job. I did get a picture of the local manatee family drinking fresh water (their favorite) from a hose on the dock. Love the way the baby rolled over on his back! On Monday, we took off for Soldier Cay--finding a couple of cruise boats from Nassau invading "our" beaches! Actually, they lease islands here and unload passengers to enjoy the beaches that we see for free (sort of).

Mama and baby manatee drinking from a hose on the dock!

Royal Caribbean--Freedom of the Seas

 We spent several days in an outstanding anchorage at White Cay. When we arrived, we had a few hours to ourselves before 4 fellow boats joined us in this unbelievable place. Take a look:




Sunrise over White Cay





White Cay beach

Beach near the Blue Hole

For a few hours, we were the only people at White Cay. Four boats

joined us that afternoon--one of the boaters rating the beaches here a '10'. We agree!!

We took a short dinghy ride to explore the Blue Hole--a natural phenomenon at White Cay.





Trying to see the bottom of the Blue Hole--rumored to be 800 feet

Overhang at the Blue Hole...complete with stalatites!

During one of our expeditions, our sailboat decided to do a 'walk-about'! We were returning from the Blue Hole to our dinghy and spotted Pat, who was rather frantically motioning for us to COME ON!! We quickly jumped in our dinghy and raced back to the anchorage, to find our boat dragging its anchor. Two of the other boaters were on-board, and already had a temporary anchor in place to hold our boat. We reset the anchor--I got some accolades for running the helm with three guys giving directions from the bow. (I'm learning not to hyperventilate) If they had not been around, who knows what would have happened....Barry says we would have been ok, but it would have been very difficult. One more lesson.
For Valentine's Day--and our 15th anniversary--we headed to Rose Island, about a 10 hour run. (Some women get a dozen roses for Valentine's Day--I got Rose Island!! Corny, I know) We arrived just before sunset, so we quickly explored the beach and found that someone had carved a large heart in the sand and had placed votives all around it and an adjacent arbor. After returning to our boat, and enjoying an anniversary pasta dinner, we tried to stay awake long enough to see what was going to happen on the beach that night. We rarely stay awake past 9pm, so we missed the ceremony. But the next day, all of the candles were gone--so someone had fun!

Catamarans from Nassau on a snorkeling adventure at Rose Island

The next day, we went snorkeling right off of our sailboat. I am always surprised by the universe that exists just below the surface of the ocean. We saw purple fan coral, brain coral, and about fifteen different varieties of tropical fish. My favorite are the ones called Gramma fish--colored half-tangarine and half-magenta! Fabulous!! Again, we did this for free--but the people on those catamarans paid dearly for an hour in the water.
One more adventure to report--as we headed to the marina in Nassau, we went aground. SMACK. Now, this has happened before, and we usually get free quickly. Not this time. Our 6 foot keel was stuck, and in spite of help from several boaters in the anchorage we could not get off. One person tried to push us off, using his dinghy. A family from France tried to pull us off--tying a long line to the mast and to their dinghy with a 30 HP outboard. Another boater tied lines from our bow and stern to mooring balls so Barry could winch us over. No luck. Finally, fellow boaters would float by and advice us to have a glass or two of wine and relax until the tide comes up. 8 hours later, we floated off. It was about 10pm, dark, and the wind was supposed to rise at any moment. We limped into Harbor View marina--taking the last slip available since everyone was trying to outrun the storm that was due to arrive imminently. Barry felt terrible about this....but we handled it well--pulling out books to read until darkness fell, and then patiently waiting for the tide. Lesson learned--watch the charts,  and don't assume we know where the channel is.

This is what it looks like to be aground. Kind of like being in a carnival fun-house for 8 hours.



The Berry Islands

 We've left Bimini behind, and are now in the Berry Islands....72 miles to the Southeast. We took it easy the first day, sailing just a few miles to an anchorage called Honeymoon Harbor. Along the way, we explored the Sapona--a WWI troop transport ship that was intentionally sunken in order to become a coral reef. We had intended to snorkel...but it was too chilly. (I know this is all relevant...chilly in the islands means it was 70 degrees and windy). Honeymoon Harbor was adjacent to a deserted beach--home to lizards, birds, and conch shells worn by the tide to reveal the colors of the sunset.

Sunset over the Atlantic...Bullock Harbor

We started the remaining 68 miles or so early the next morning (2:30 a.m.)--accompanied by a rising moon and brilliant stars. 68 miles in a car takes an hour....in a heavy sailboat, it takes much longer. After sailing and motoring all day, we set anchor at 9 p.m. or so on the Great Bahama Bank --a shelf of shallow water between Bimini and the remainder of the islands. After a short amount of rest, we headed on into the Berry Islands--anchoring in Bullock's Harbor. Unbelievable sunsets!

En guarde!

Miles and miles of deserted beaches, lined with
condos and private homes

We explored parts of the island in the dinghy the next day. The beaches here are almost beyond words and pictures don't do them justice. Sugar sand, turquoise water that is clear completely to the sandy bottom, almost like looking through mother of pearl. Not surprisingly, cruise ships have leased a small island near here and most days we can see a cruise ship anchored off-shore with people parasailing and using waverunners.




Anglican Church--Great Harbor Cay

 Whenever we're in a new place, we like to visit the local village if possible. As we walked into town, we could hear the kids at the local school laughing and yelling while outside at recess. They were all neatly dressed in crisp uniforms. In addition to the school and small houses, there are several churches, grocery stores, and bars/cafes. The largest grocery store is about the size of a convenience store at home, dimly lit, with frosted over, ancient freezer cases. We arrived on a Wednesday, the day before the boat comes over with fresh supplies. We were told there would be fresh vegetables available on "Tursday". (Not exactly true, as it turns out....the boat arrived, but the crane to unload it broke, delaying the delivery of fresh food. I love veggies....and I miss them!) Speaking of groceries....let's do a price check!
Keebler Crackers....$6.30
One roll of TP......... $1.65
One roll of paper towels.....$2.75
One gal. of gas for dinghy...$7.00
Vacation in the Bahamas.....PRICELESS!!

The cut into Great Cay Harbor

Great Harbor Cay welcoming committee--a juvenile manatee!





Because a strong storm system was moving in, with predictions for winds of up to 25 knots (30 mph), we decided to spend this weekend in a marina. It costs $60 a night, but the benefits are worth it. Protection from the wind, ELECTRICITY, WATER, LAUNDRY, WIFI, PEOPLE, LAND UNDER MY FEET just to name a few. This is a small marina...room for about 25 boats, but you'll never guess who has a gigantic yacht here! Jack Nicklaus! In the 70's this was a glamorous outpost, with a luxury golf course and marinas. Now it is a quiet, secluded place, with loyal customers that return year after year. Local fishermen sell their catch for the day right on the dock....we bought a lobster tail weighing over a pound and had a scrumptious meal. But conch is the name of the game here....conch fritters, conch sandwiches, etc. 

Lobster, anyone?

Several boats have come in to avoid the winds, so a potluck appetizer party was arranged for last night. We enjoyed chatting with everyone for a couple of hours--gathering up stories and local knowledge. Today we may go over to Shark Creek at low tide to see stingrays, small sharks, and other sea creatures up close. Tomorrow we plan to start heading south again, on our way to Nassau to pick up our friends Dale and Deni next Sunday. Watch for more postings next weekend....when we assume we'll have wifi again. Hope all is well in St. Louis!!

The Crossing

Well, it's happened--I've lost track of time down here. But I think we spent 7-10 days in the Miami area waiting for the wind to change. First we were at Coconut Grove and then in No Name Harbor--part of yet another beautiful state park in Florida. When in a marina or harbor such as No Name, our entertainment centers on exploring by foot, biking, and walking trails that run along the beach. Due to this new exercise routine, Barry desperately wants to weigh himself to see how much weight he's lost!!
In No Name, we meet another couple--Chris and Elizabeth--who want to "buddy sail" with us to Bimini--this provides a safety net for all of us. Finally the day for our 60 mile crossing arrives. The north winds have switched to East-Southeast and we gave it one more day for the waves to settle down (more about this later). At 5 a.m., we follow Chris and Liz as they guide us out of the harbor through the shallows, using navigation marks from someone else who recently left the harbor. This is a little risky, but shaves off almost an hour of travel time. We make it and are now in deeper water, with waves predicted at 2-4 ft, with occasional 5 footers, just for fun. (more about that later) Waves at 2-4 ft are considered normal for a crossing. 60 miles on a roller coaster is NOT normal to me. Here are my thoughts on the crossing--written in the style of a children's book called Fortunately.

Fortunately, we traveled with another boat
unfortunately they turned back.
Fortunately, we have everything we need on the boat
unfortunately most of it is now on the floor.
Fortunately, it is only 60 miles to Bimini
unfortunately it will end up taking us 13 hours.
Fortunately, the water is a gorgeous sapphire blue
unfortunately it is rolling and crashing nonstop.
Fortunately, I see no sharks
unfortunately I know they're here.
Fortunately, I have several books to read
unfortunately I would throw up.
Fortunately, we have enough food to last for 6+ weeks
unfortunately I can't even think about eating.
Fortunately, we find Bimini and anchor for the night
unfortunately it was a "rolly" anchorage.
Fortunately WE MADE IT! (if I could have kissed the ground, I would have)

Things we learned:
Go into a marina ASAP to have a calm place to tie up and recover
Bring lots of crackers to settle your stomach
Close ALL hatches tightly--we killed our microwave with a salt water bath
Don't put plastic boxes filled with screws and fittings on a high, unsecured shelf
We CAN react quickly in an emergency!

Speaking of emergencies--here is a story for the grandkids, as Popo (Barry) says:
We'd been riding this bucking bronco of water for about 8 hours when suddenly the shackle that holds the line for the mainsail breaks! The shackle is flopping madly in the wind behind Popo's head while the boom is swinging wildly over both of us. Popo reacts quickly--manhandling the line. (Imagine trying to grab the end of a rope attached to a tarp or tent that is caught up in a windstorm....and you kind of get the picture). With great effort, he wrestles part of the line around a cleat and then attaches his lifeline to his lifejacket. (We don't want Popo going overboard, do we?) Even though the seas are constant rolls and swells, we have to get the mainsail down and secured before it knocks us out. Popo bravely clambers to the mast. In the meantime, I rapidly review what to do for a man overboard. Drop the sail, keep your eye on him at all times, cut back power, call mayday on channel 16, give coordinates from the GPS, throw a flotation device at the first chance. OK, he's a dead man. But NO...he manages to keep his footing, is not thrown overboard, and he releases the mainsail. I'm being thrown around in the cockpit as I try to wrap the mainsail sheet around a winch in order to contain it. I manage that while Popo ties down the front end of the sail. Mission accomplished! What a TEAM!

But anyway...
Bimini is a small island that is a gateway to the Bahamas. The people are friendly (to a point) with visitors and very relaxed and talkative with one another. They speak English with a lilting dialect that rolls like the waves. We're in Alice Town--a Bahamian village with small, quaint (i.e. somewhat neglected) groceries, hardwares, cafes, and gift shops. Sometimes they're open, sometimes not. We're on island time, mon! Emptied conch shells are piled high near every cafe, along with old boats. Again, we bike and walk everywhere--but here pedestrians walk at their own risk! The narrow streets are full of bikes, golf carts, old cars, taxi vans, screaming evangelists (really), and morning drunks. Beware!

Feeding Bull Sharks at dock of nearby marina--I told you there were sharks!

We plan to sail for the Berry Islands tomorrow, and then on to the Exhumas. Internet access is hard to find...so it may be awhile before I blog again. Currently, we are sitting in the cockpit of Bill and Donna's boat--they are computer experts who are continuously connected. They celebrated Barry's birthday with us last night and are graciously letting me use their internet. Wish us luck!

Waiting for the Winds of Change

I've never paid so much attention to wind direction in my whole life! To sail smoothly to the Bahamas, a southerly breeze is preferable, although an easterly breeze will do. Northerly winds, such as we've had all week, wreak havoc on the seas. But...there are worse places in the world to wait for a shift in the wind! After leaving Indian Key, we took a short, 6-hour sail to Rodriguez Key. We anchored in a quiet, sheltered location just off of Rodriguez Key and took a short dinghy ride across the bay to check out the local attractions.


Rodriguez Key Chamber of Commerce







Aqua-Man




Barry always enjoys his work!

 Not finding much, we headed back. Barry took the plunge and cleaned the bottom of the boat and the prop....it wasn't as 'hairy' as we feared! (Barnacles and algae grow like weeds down here--leading to a beard on unattended boats.)

We then enjoyed yet another magnificent sunset--just the two of us, sitting on the bow of our boat. The sunsets are hidden in the hills at home, so we soak them in every day.





Sunset over Rodriguez Key

 We've been in Coconut Grove now since Tuesday night, in a mooring field...close to Key Biscayne and Miami. 

It's rather tricky attaching to a mooring ball... Barry has to thread a mooring line from our bow through the pendant on the ball while I guide the boat. This time, it took three times to accomplish our goal...mostly because of the wind and because Barry got cut by barnacles on the mooring ball lines, causing him to drop the line. We are always aware that other boaters nearby are enjoying this show....

Mooring ball...thread the needle

we didn't disappoint them:)

Coco Walk Mall

Green Street Cafe

Coconut Grove is a sort of like the Central West End in St. Louis....artsy and relaxed. We've enjoyed breakfast at a cafe and appetizers at a local wine shop. We've also found an exquisite, independently owned book store that opens at 7 a.m.--perfect for early risers like us. We can be on shore, via our dinghy, and walking downtown before the sun comes over the horizon.
Wednesday night, while having a light dinner at a local restaurant, a flock of birds appeared out of nowhere! Actually, a gentleman walked through this open-air mall and let people 'play' with his birds, for a small gratuity. This was the highlight of our evening!



Bird Man of Coconut Grove



For a bird fanatic, this is the BEST!

Just so you know, we haven't been playing for the last few days....Barry has started the process of repainting the non-skid paint on deck. We're changing from the original blue-gray to a sea-foam green, which blends beautifully with the new green canvas. We've also started to remove the white paint from the teak handrails--taking it back to the original teak. (This process involves unscrewing the rails from the inside and outside, using a power sander to remove most of the paint, and then a razor blade to remove the stubborn white paint in the grain of the wood. Takes about 3 hours for 6 feet of rail. After doing one of the shorter of the four handrails, Barry thought it just might be worth the money to buy new handrails and skip the manual labor. Sounds good to me!)
Tonight, we are together, sitting on the bow of our boat, looking at a moon that is nearly full. The same moon has risen at home. Here, on Biscayne Bay, the moonlight dances on the water in front of us with the neon lights of Miami in the distance. Barry hugs me and says: "Life is good!" Yes...it is!